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Jawara Alleyne titled his latest collection Construction with deliberate irony. Known for twisting safety pins, slashed jerseys, and knotted fabrics into subversive forms, his work thrives on dismantling the very rules of garment-making. “Deconstruction is the way I construct,” he said—and this season, he applied that logic not just to clothes, but to his entire process.
The collection reached back to his roots with jersey pieces inspired by kite-making in his Jamaican childhood: simple materials pulled taut at precise points. But Alleyne also elevated his approach with richer fabrics—corduroy, wool, taffeta—ruched and folded into sweeping gowns that felt destined for the stage or red carpet. (His fans already include Rihanna, Charli XCX, and Shakira.)
Playful details kept his edge intact: elastic bands refashioned as chokers, his name scrawled in marker where logos might be, a finale corset pieced from jersey strands. Menswear carried a sharper commercial hit too—polo shirts spliced into optical illusions, flared jeans pinned together and splattered with color.
Presented in an industrial Shoreditch space to a pounding soundtrack, Construction felt like a reset. Still raw, still mischievous, but more assured—Alleyne is building toward a new era, without abandoning the unruly spirit that defines him.